Day 8, 06 13hrs: I and Sonu got ready to bid goodbye to Leh. We were about to start our bikes when there was a voice from the kitchen which was adjacent to the parking area. The cook asked us to leave after having a tea. Which is not what they normally do at this time, but he woke early only to make us tea. It was so touching and kind--the camaraderie these people shared! Day 8, 08 23hrs: After breakfast in Upshi, it was the time for the main motivation of the trip--taking a dip and drinking Indus river waters. But I realized that getting in the water will be a bad idea considering we have to cover a lot of distance in two days and we cannot afford to lose any time. So I settled to taste the Indus, whose magnificence in India's history is unparalleled. Such a holy thing and suddenly where all the energies come from, to have the Indus in my body. What all had I missed on my onward journey! The ride from Leh to Pang is the best part of the entire trip. Good roads, unimaginable ...