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Leh Ladakh_15th-27thSep'17 ~Ch1: Chennai to Manali

Day1, 4 25hrs: Waking up, checking whiteboard, getting ready, final packings and checks in 40 mins to get into Ola. It was a pleasant drive: waking up so early after a long time, seeing the night beauty of the crowd-less, noiseless Chennai and listening to Suprabatham. The Jet Airways took off 10 min prior to the scheduled 7AM departure. I was cursing myself for having forgotten to check my tickets to a window seat, which I never would want to miss in any type of travel, especially when I am flying the views are spectacular and when it is dawn. Cha, how did I miss?! (the most I have enjoyed so far was the Chennai-Guwahati flight's east seat during the sunrise where it went along the coast! Estuaries, Deltas, Mountains, Forests, Oceans I saw them all!!)  But to console myself I thought it wouldn't have mattered anyway as it was cloudy, opaque most of the time I was trying to peep in and not to mention the heavy downpour in Mumbai that time. Also, I was sleeping most of the time as I only had 4 hours of sleep that night. That was my second Jet experience but what I did not know was that they served complimentary meals, two times, one before Mumbai and one before Chandigarh. I loved their service and the cabin crew were very kind; she offered me an extra bun when I pointed out that she had forgotten the butter in my plate. Next to me in the middle seat was a gentleman with whom I was having a then and now conversation. He looked like a typical cinema exposed guy and the Setji face cut. We did not speak much as we both were sleeping in alternate turns. It was only minutes before we got down in Chandigarh I got to know his name and what he does: M.V Gopal Ram, a director, a film producer, an actor, and a dubbing movie businessman.

Day1, 12 00hrs: Got out of the Chandigarh airport and with the help of the Security who managed to understand my English somehow communicated to me to take the 38A bus to Sector 43 bus stand to find Manali buses. And wow! as soon as I walked out I found the A/C bus. Looked for the window seat again, but no!! I chose to sit next to a young guy who looked like with whom I could converse in English. Ajay, like all of the Chandigarh guys I met later, was very friendly and we could talk without hesitation about the culture, language and differences between North and South India. The camaraderie clicked, we even exchanged numbers and took selfies. Ajay too had to get down at the same stop so it was easy for me and he took me to the place where Manali buses stand. Ajay just gave me hope and confidence that I am going to manage in North India without knowing Hindi. After bidding adieu to Ajay, I had a bit of struggle in the ticket counter that is when Susheel came into the story, he had just booked tickets before me and helped me in making sure I got the window tickets this time! I got another friend/translator!


Day1, 13 00hrs:  I had 1 hour before the bus departs at 2PM. Enough time to fill my stomach. I did not have to search much as I found hotels in the bus stand. I wasn't satisfied with the noodles and I wanted more spice. The Samosa Chenna also did not help. In fact, I did not finish both. But it was ok for some food for lunch and not to starve.
The bus was no better than our MTCs. small chairs, no leg rooms, crowdy, bumpy roads. Auto-rides are better, I could say and I had no option for the next 10 hours. The conductor, who looks like a typical Bollywood conductor with his protruding tummy, that north Indian Hindi accent and no English, cursed me for having kept my backpack in the front bus just before his seat, but I was just smiling/blushing as if I understood, thank god I did not. There was no other space, luggage occupied more space than passengers in the front half of the bus. I was sitting two rows behind him on the right side window. Lucky me, there was Susheel, otherwise handling that conductor, who struck a conversation with me now and then, would have been difficult.


 After 2 hours of the rough ride, it was time for a break, much-needed one. Thanda paani did help a lot that I ended up having 3! I then spoke to 2 other passengers who had backpacks clearly showing they were also on a trip. They were going to Kasol. One of them offered his smoke, I refused and said I never smoke, drink. That look on their faces asked me why I am even going to Manali. I quickly changed topics as I am not comfortable with their Why questions which usually follows the situation and my answers will make it more awkward for them. And we soon left for our seats as the bus continued its bumpy ride. The road only got worse with time, but the views got better as we entered the Himalayas. But that too had to be short-lived as it was the time for the sun to rest. I saw on google maps that I was travelling in the mountains along the Sutlej/Beas river, but it was dark outside and I promised myself that I am going to return from Manali during the day to get the views I have missed. There was one long tunnel which I definitely did not want to miss on my return. 

Will check phone rarely and won't have network when I'm in J&K. 12 days.
Posted by Devakumar Selvam on Friday, 15 September 2017
Day 1, 20 48hrs: Bus stopped for Dinner, it was pitch dark, the only lights were on the inside of the bus and the hotels. I could hear only the sound of the river and the wind, it was so amusing to look away from the hotel and to try and figure out the landscape.
 Had Thupka, Momos but not satisfactory maybe because it was not good or my little nauseating feel due to bumpy hill ride. Then as the bus started, the crowded bus saw their passengers getting out exponentially with each stop, Susheel too, in one of the stops after we exchanged numbers and facebook ids. Then it became only 3 passengers in the bus and we still had 3 hours journey left. Atleast I could stretch my legs into the 3 seater and rest my head on the window and enjoy the breeze!
Then another conversation struck among Pushpraj, one of the three passengers, conductor and me. Pushpraj was the translator and we soon became good acquaintances. He gave his number and asked me to contact if I needed any help in Manali. He is working in one of the Hotels in Manali.

Day 1, 23 45hrs: The bus stopped at the Kallath check-post, the conductor got down, stopped a lorry and spoke to the driver in Hindi. We were then asked to get out of the bus and take the lorry. I was like what's happening! Pushpraj enlightened me that the driver is tired and he is asking us to continue in the lorry to Manali. Me and the 3rd passenger, whose name I forgot--let me call him Sheik, for now, took the lorry while Pushpraj stayed back at the check-post to meet his friend working there and wanted return with him.
Not more than a km we would have gone, there was a huge traffic block. No one knew what happened, but their faces looked they familiar and used to this situation; accidents, avalanche, roadblocks are common it seems. So I and Sheik started to walk, Sheik was good, knew English and helped me in translation. Particularly to talk to my hotel people in this midnight and co-ordinate to get their taxi to the hotel. So after walking 2 kms, we found out the cause of the roadblock: a Volvo bus and tempo lorry had hit head to head. On walking further by a km, I reached the spot where I was asked to wait by hotel people and where the taxi would come to pick me. Shaked hands with Sheik and thanked him a lot before he left me alone there. It was pitch dark and  I could hear only the sound of the river on the other side of the road. There were few drunk taxi drivers asking me if they could drop me--I was scared! Somehow made it to the hotel around 00 45 the next day!

Day 2, 01 00hrs: After having broken sleep, a lot of bumpy travel, many new acquaintances and a little adventure, I hit the bed finally for a 5-hour sleep again as we have to start our bikes at 8AM to Leh!!!

What I did not know then was that the thrill and adventure only went multi-folds in the coming days!!




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