Day 8, 06 13hrs: I and Sonu got ready to bid goodbye to Leh. We were about to start our bikes when there was a voice from the kitchen which was adjacent
to the parking area. The cook asked us to leave after having a tea. Which is not what they normally do at this time, but he woke early only to make us tea. It was so touching and kind--the camaraderie these people shared!
Day 8, 08 23hrs: After breakfast in Upshi, it was the time for the main motivation of the trip--taking a dip and drinking Indus river waters.
But I realized that getting in the water will be a bad idea considering we have to cover a lot of distance in two days and we cannot afford to lose any time. So I settled to taste the Indus, whose magnificence in India's history is unparalleled. Such a holy thing and suddenly where all the energies come from, to have the Indus in my body.
What all had I missed on my onward journey! The ride from Leh to Pang is the best part of the entire trip. Good roads, unimaginable scenery. As if the Gods had a software to create this sublime beauty. And I am sure if a human is given that software he cannot match to the God's creativity--atleast I can't. When everything looks barren in a valley, suddenly out of nowhere comes a village with all lush green and different shades of yellow. Streaming waters from the top of the mountains to join the river which follows you. Adding to all this, it was only me and Sonu on the roads. I failed to capture the green moments as Sonu rightly kept making me aware that we have to cover a large distance before the sun sets.
Pang is the most beautiful place on the Leh-Manali highway. The weather at that time also helped us to witness the grandeur at its maximum. Never felt like leaving that place but miles to go!
Beyond Pang, started the off-roads. Particularly at the first pic below, where I had stopped to take the pic, Sonu, who always had a headstart, came back making a u-turn and warned me not to stop anywhere near this place as rocks often fall from the top.
Then the Gata loops, 21 hairpin bends! if you look at it on Google Maps it looks even more terrific!
Day 8, 14 23hrs: As it was the off-season almost all of the tent stays and dhabhas have evacuated. I barely saw any person on my way. Somehow there was one dhabha as if it was waiting for us. The Dhabha-wala said we were the only customers.
The time the below video was taken was when I experienced the snowfall--my first. It was very minute to give me the chills what if it gets worse. Fear got worse when it began to drizzle.
Day 8, 17 44hrs: The drizzle became intense so did my worry to where and how my stay that night was going to be. It was a relief when Sonu stopped in a dhabha in Darcha. The joined beds were in one small room, hardly 8 people can sleep. The owner and Sonu are friends. And as soon as we untied our backpacks and got inside the room. It started raining cats and dogs. I was really scared, it rained as if it was going to wash everything away. But not an iota of panic in anybody's face. What frightened me more was the strange looking three guys, should be in their early 20's, I tried to be not judgemental, but how can they smoke and have alcohol inspite being warned once in a small room where a family with two cute little kids were also staying! Appalled, I tried to sleep covering myself entirely all the time and tried not to strike a conversation with anyone. On anyday, I would have talked to those cute kids and taken pictures. With jackets, monkey caps, woolen gloves and shoes, chubby cheeks, and unsteady walking, all kids were so adorable.
It was a disastrous night, only if Sonu had chosen some other dhabha. The place was fine, but strange guys, alcohol, and smoke, yuck! Only thing I wanted that night was to survive.
Day 9, 06 24hrs: I survived the night! Very little drizzle just looked like a passing cloud. I was happy that I am leaving that place and Manali was only few hours away.
The views were charming and the weather was icing on the cake. The rain was mild and felt like we were being blessed by the rain gods. But it started getting intense and my fear started to grow.
It was usually Sonu who was giving me a headstart, but he asked me to go infront when we stopped in the Koksar check-post while he was busy getting verified the permits. after 40 minutes or so till I took the below video Sonu had not come! I was horrified!! I was standing there for like 10 mins in the rain. Precious time as it good to descend down as early as possible to have better chances of surviving the rain. I was standing alone in the middle of nowhere, petrified, the roads were slowly becoming streams. That's when a Honda CBR 150, with a GoPro in the helmet, a guy stopped and discussed the rains. He said he had not seen any bike from Koksar where he stayed overnight but only mine. I still did not know what to do! Should I go back in search of Sonu? or should I continue?
If it was not that CBR guy I would have gone back, Sonu is an expert, mechanic, professional, local, and he could take care of himself, he has done this several times in his life and been in more worse situations. I thought to myself to call Sonu after reaching Manali and left with the CBR.
The rains grew exponentially. Not more than 5 meters I could see. There were practically no roads. had to use the legs more often than the accelerator! To add to the horror my bike stopped. Fuel empty. I had extra petrol in the jerry can, but that was only for 200rs. I was not sure if that could hold till Manali. Just before the Rohtang pass we found roads but with a lot of potholes. A speeding Bolero timed perfectly into a pothole that the splash of water hit straight fast into my eyes and it was aching for a while. Nothing ran in my mind other than just surviving. I could barely see what was coming in front of me.
Finally saw few people in Rohtang pass, gave me some sort of relief and hope. But we could not stay there for long as well. We followed a SUV to make sure we identified the potholes, get notified of the vehicles coming opposite and went safely. Most scary part of my entire life so far!! and it was not over. My bike stopped again, ran out of fuel. Luckily it was close to the town and there were shops and people all over. Also, it was a descending slope which means I can go in neutral till the petrol station which is at the end of the hill. After filling petrol, it was time to leave Samson Antony, whose company was pivotal in me surviving to Manali. He was doing this bike trip from Hyderabad to the northernmost motorable part of India! I was very fortunate to have in my journey at a time I was lost in the middle of nowhere. Below is the link of his journey.
http://blog.woovly.com/solo-ride-leh-covering-6379-km-8-states-19-days-bucket-list/?utm_source=Samson%20Anthony&utm_medium=Social%20Sharing
Then I remembered what Sonu said that he is from Vashist and there is hot spring. So I decided to go there and find a room and it will be easy for me to find him. Vashisht is a beautiful famous place just before Manali coming from Leh. It was on top of a hill. I kept going and going as long as the roads went. I saw a lot of shops, crowd, foreigners, and a busy temple. Surely the place to stay.
Day 9, 15 22hrs: I managed to get a cheap room with outstanding view. I was proud that I survived!!
With a sigh of great relief, I wanted to call Amar and Sonu, and plan the rest. But just realized my main phone with all the contacts and WhatsApp, had drenched and died. Another shock I had to brave. So I switched my sims into the other phone--Vikas's waterproof mobile I used to take the videos. But damn, no bars!! I was furious. I have to pack everything back and go to Manali and find a room there. But just when I wanted to pack things after attending the nature's call, saw full bars on the phone. Lesson learned: have patience, don't panic. But still, I did not have any of their numbers. I had once called to Vikas through Amar's phone when I was in Leh. So I called Vikas asked him to pick Amar's number from his registry. That's how I called Amar and explained the situation. He advised giving the bike to his brother in Manali in the evening. Having planned that I badly wanted to have a power nap, I had not eaten anything from the morning as well, but the fear, anxiety eclipsed my hunger. In another 30 mins or so, Sonu called!! pheww, he is all good, he had taken a break for the rains in Koksar itself and he returned to his place which is at the bottom of the hill. So I planned to return the bike to him in the evening, hire another Scooter for the next 2 days and take another room in Manali itself.
Day 9, 16 21hrs: After a power nap, I went for a walk in the rains to find something to eat. I found a lot of foreigners there smoking. I doubted it could be Marijuana. I was rushing the hotel woman to rush my order explaining to her that I am hungry, but she did understand English and did not seem to care. That's when a guy completely clothed in dark green with a witch hat and long hair translated what I was saying to the hotel lady. I struck a conversation with him asking what all the foreigners were smoking, he said it could be some substance and asked me to sit beside him. I came to know he is alone and is completely into exploring spirituality. We had interesting discussions and we soon joined by another enthusiastic spiritual guy--Triloch Atman, a Bangalore guy who left his family and corporate job to get fully into spirituality. The other man, Joy Paul, was from Cochin. Joy proudly exclaimed to the hotel lady telling our places and we were from South India! Chennai-Cochin-Bangalore. He also found another trinity in our star signs Aries-Sagittarius-Leo(I am not sure of the last two, I forgot). We had one long discussion on spirituality, it was like I was getting answers to many of the things, I ponder about, in capsules. I also learned that Vashisht is one exciting and vibrant place to live and with a natural hot-spring nearby, there could be no better place to live. Those enlightening discussions had to stop as I had to return the bike to Sonu in his shop and hire a new scooter. And that's how the rest of the evening went.
When I returned back to the room and before I slept, I realized what a destiny today was: Experienced the extreme climate yet survived under the merciful nature; Lost Sonu but Samson accompanied; came to Vashist, found a room with beautiful view, met amazing spiritual people. And then was a satisfying soulful sleep!!
What is to follow are the two solo honeymoon days in Manali and the adventures of getting back to Chennai......
to the parking area. The cook asked us to leave after having a tea. Which is not what they normally do at this time, but he woke early only to make us tea. It was so touching and kind--the camaraderie these people shared!Day 8, 08 23hrs: After breakfast in Upshi, it was the time for the main motivation of the trip--taking a dip and drinking Indus river waters.
What all had I missed on my onward journey! The ride from Leh to Pang is the best part of the entire trip. Good roads, unimaginable scenery. As if the Gods had a software to create this sublime beauty. And I am sure if a human is given that software he cannot match to the God's creativity--atleast I can't. When everything looks barren in a valley, suddenly out of nowhere comes a village with all lush green and different shades of yellow. Streaming waters from the top of the mountains to join the river which follows you. Adding to all this, it was only me and Sonu on the roads. I failed to capture the green moments as Sonu rightly kept making me aware that we have to cover a large distance before the sun sets.
Beyond Pang, started the off-roads. Particularly at the first pic below, where I had stopped to take the pic, Sonu, who always had a headstart, came back making a u-turn and warned me not to stop anywhere near this place as rocks often fall from the top.
Then the Gata loops, 21 hairpin bends! if you look at it on Google Maps it looks even more terrific!
Day 8, 14 23hrs: As it was the off-season almost all of the tent stays and dhabhas have evacuated. I barely saw any person on my way. Somehow there was one dhabha as if it was waiting for us. The Dhabha-wala said we were the only customers.
The time the below video was taken was when I experienced the snowfall--my first. It was very minute to give me the chills what if it gets worse. Fear got worse when it began to drizzle.
Day 8, 17 44hrs: The drizzle became intense so did my worry to where and how my stay that night was going to be. It was a relief when Sonu stopped in a dhabha in Darcha. The joined beds were in one small room, hardly 8 people can sleep. The owner and Sonu are friends. And as soon as we untied our backpacks and got inside the room. It started raining cats and dogs. I was really scared, it rained as if it was going to wash everything away. But not an iota of panic in anybody's face. What frightened me more was the strange looking three guys, should be in their early 20's, I tried to be not judgemental, but how can they smoke and have alcohol inspite being warned once in a small room where a family with two cute little kids were also staying! Appalled, I tried to sleep covering myself entirely all the time and tried not to strike a conversation with anyone. On anyday, I would have talked to those cute kids and taken pictures. With jackets, monkey caps, woolen gloves and shoes, chubby cheeks, and unsteady walking, all kids were so adorable.
It was a disastrous night, only if Sonu had chosen some other dhabha. The place was fine, but strange guys, alcohol, and smoke, yuck! Only thing I wanted that night was to survive.
Day 9, 06 24hrs: I survived the night! Very little drizzle just looked like a passing cloud. I was happy that I am leaving that place and Manali was only few hours away.
The views were charming and the weather was icing on the cake. The rain was mild and felt like we were being blessed by the rain gods. But it started getting intense and my fear started to grow.
It was usually Sonu who was giving me a headstart, but he asked me to go infront when we stopped in the Koksar check-post while he was busy getting verified the permits. after 40 minutes or so till I took the below video Sonu had not come! I was horrified!! I was standing there for like 10 mins in the rain. Precious time as it good to descend down as early as possible to have better chances of surviving the rain. I was standing alone in the middle of nowhere, petrified, the roads were slowly becoming streams. That's when a Honda CBR 150, with a GoPro in the helmet, a guy stopped and discussed the rains. He said he had not seen any bike from Koksar where he stayed overnight but only mine. I still did not know what to do! Should I go back in search of Sonu? or should I continue?
If it was not that CBR guy I would have gone back, Sonu is an expert, mechanic, professional, local, and he could take care of himself, he has done this several times in his life and been in more worse situations. I thought to myself to call Sonu after reaching Manali and left with the CBR.
The rains grew exponentially. Not more than 5 meters I could see. There were practically no roads. had to use the legs more often than the accelerator! To add to the horror my bike stopped. Fuel empty. I had extra petrol in the jerry can, but that was only for 200rs. I was not sure if that could hold till Manali. Just before the Rohtang pass we found roads but with a lot of potholes. A speeding Bolero timed perfectly into a pothole that the splash of water hit straight fast into my eyes and it was aching for a while. Nothing ran in my mind other than just surviving. I could barely see what was coming in front of me.
Finally saw few people in Rohtang pass, gave me some sort of relief and hope. But we could not stay there for long as well. We followed a SUV to make sure we identified the potholes, get notified of the vehicles coming opposite and went safely. Most scary part of my entire life so far!! and it was not over. My bike stopped again, ran out of fuel. Luckily it was close to the town and there were shops and people all over. Also, it was a descending slope which means I can go in neutral till the petrol station which is at the end of the hill. After filling petrol, it was time to leave Samson Antony, whose company was pivotal in me surviving to Manali. He was doing this bike trip from Hyderabad to the northernmost motorable part of India! I was very fortunate to have in my journey at a time I was lost in the middle of nowhere. Below is the link of his journey.
http://blog.woovly.com/solo-ride-leh-covering-6379-km-8-states-19-days-bucket-list/?utm_source=Samson%20Anthony&utm_medium=Social%20Sharing
Then I remembered what Sonu said that he is from Vashist and there is hot spring. So I decided to go there and find a room and it will be easy for me to find him. Vashisht is a beautiful famous place just before Manali coming from Leh. It was on top of a hill. I kept going and going as long as the roads went. I saw a lot of shops, crowd, foreigners, and a busy temple. Surely the place to stay.
Day 9, 15 22hrs: I managed to get a cheap room with outstanding view. I was proud that I survived!!
With a sigh of great relief, I wanted to call Amar and Sonu, and plan the rest. But just realized my main phone with all the contacts and WhatsApp, had drenched and died. Another shock I had to brave. So I switched my sims into the other phone--Vikas's waterproof mobile I used to take the videos. But damn, no bars!! I was furious. I have to pack everything back and go to Manali and find a room there. But just when I wanted to pack things after attending the nature's call, saw full bars on the phone. Lesson learned: have patience, don't panic. But still, I did not have any of their numbers. I had once called to Vikas through Amar's phone when I was in Leh. So I called Vikas asked him to pick Amar's number from his registry. That's how I called Amar and explained the situation. He advised giving the bike to his brother in Manali in the evening. Having planned that I badly wanted to have a power nap, I had not eaten anything from the morning as well, but the fear, anxiety eclipsed my hunger. In another 30 mins or so, Sonu called!! pheww, he is all good, he had taken a break for the rains in Koksar itself and he returned to his place which is at the bottom of the hill. So I planned to return the bike to him in the evening, hire another Scooter for the next 2 days and take another room in Manali itself.
Day 9, 16 21hrs: After a power nap, I went for a walk in the rains to find something to eat. I found a lot of foreigners there smoking. I doubted it could be Marijuana. I was rushing the hotel woman to rush my order explaining to her that I am hungry, but she did understand English and did not seem to care. That's when a guy completely clothed in dark green with a witch hat and long hair translated what I was saying to the hotel lady. I struck a conversation with him asking what all the foreigners were smoking, he said it could be some substance and asked me to sit beside him. I came to know he is alone and is completely into exploring spirituality. We had interesting discussions and we soon joined by another enthusiastic spiritual guy--Triloch Atman, a Bangalore guy who left his family and corporate job to get fully into spirituality. The other man, Joy Paul, was from Cochin. Joy proudly exclaimed to the hotel lady telling our places and we were from South India! Chennai-Cochin-Bangalore. He also found another trinity in our star signs Aries-Sagittarius-Leo(I am not sure of the last two, I forgot). We had one long discussion on spirituality, it was like I was getting answers to many of the things, I ponder about, in capsules. I also learned that Vashisht is one exciting and vibrant place to live and with a natural hot-spring nearby, there could be no better place to live. Those enlightening discussions had to stop as I had to return the bike to Sonu in his shop and hire a new scooter. And that's how the rest of the evening went.
When I returned back to the room and before I slept, I realized what a destiny today was: Experienced the extreme climate yet survived under the merciful nature; Lost Sonu but Samson accompanied; came to Vashist, found a room with beautiful view, met amazing spiritual people. And then was a satisfying soulful sleep!!What is to follow are the two solo honeymoon days in Manali and the adventures of getting back to Chennai......